Baroque, iconic, and opulent, the Palace of Versailles may be the most famous royal complex in the world—with the crowds to prove it. On busy days the wait to get in can be up to two hours. But Marie Antoinette’s homestead is not the only jaw-dropping palace in Europe. Travelers should consider a visit to Potsdam, Germany, a town 30 minutes from Berlin. There they will find Sanssouci, another lavishly appointed palace located on more than 700-acres–-rivaling New York’s Central Park in size. The landscaping uniquely combines both French and English garden styles. Known as the “Prussian Versailles,” the palace and grounds were built for Frederick the Great, the King of Prussia between 1747 and 1748. Though smaller in scale, Sanssouci possesses the same visual extravagance as its larger French cousin, but minus the hordes.
Potsdam instead of Versailles: A palace fit for a king
Ironically, the Potsdam palace’s name, Sanssouci, is French, not German, and means “without worry.” Built in the ornate Rococo style that flourished in both countries during the 18th century, Sanssouci, like Versailles, was designed to be a luxurious retreat from a crowded and dirty capital for Frederick the Great, a king who needed a haven.
Frederick ruled Prussia as an enlightened autocrat. While a commanding military strategist, he had a sensitive side and was an accomplished musician and writer. Frederick is also credited with agricultural advances and introduced the potato to Germany.
“He’s kind of like a George Washington character,” says Kevin Kennedy, a Berlin-based tour guide and college history lecturer. “He tried to get farmers to grow them in a province but was met with mixed success.” Though Frederick pushed the potato, Kennedy says, the root vegetable only became popular in Germany in the 19th Century.
The ornate Rococo-style Sanssouci Palace features 12 large rooms, an art gallery that features paintings by artists such as Rubens, Van Dyck, and Caravaggio; and a multitiered garden used to cultivate figs, grapes, and other fruits.
Photograph by Mike Mareen, Adobe Stock
Reflecting Frederick’s artistic side and need for a private sanctuary, Sanssouci is more intimate than the sprawling Versailles and more personal. “It was his man cave,” Kennedy says. However, such restraint is not immediately evident to modern eyes. The single-story place painted yellow stretches across a hilltop, boasting 12 large rooms and a fairy-tale setting. The palace’s interiors are equally lavish, including the famous Marble Hall and the king’s study, where Frederick would engage in intellectual pursuits and write his music. The rooms showcase Rococo ornamentation, featuring gilded stucco, intricate wood carvings, and paintings.
Gardens and Art Gallery
Sanssouci’s other highlights include a landscaped eight-tier garden cascading down the hill. The unique design is not only beautiful but had practical applications. Frederick used the terraces to cultivate figs, grapes, and other fruits. Travelers shouldn’t miss the Bildergalerie, an ornate building housing the royal art collection with paintings by artists such as Rubens, Van Dyck, and Caravaggio. “Just the marble work will drop your jaw,” Kennedy says. Lastly, visitors might want to pay their respects to Frederick himself. He’s buried on the palace grounds, and visitors occasionally leave potatoes on his grave to honor his role in popularizing them.
Other Postdam Palaces
There’s more to palatial Potsdam than Sanssouci. The town is home to 14 other Prussian palaces, including:
The New Palace: Frederick built this commanding 1769 residence for his guests. With more than 200 rooms, it’s larger than Sanssouci. One advantage, Kennedy says, is it remains open on Mondays when most museums in Potsdam are closed.
Belvedere Palace: Conceived as a Renaissance villa by King Frederick William IV, the palace represented his infatuation with the Mediterranean. “The King couldn’t go to Italy, so Italy came to him,” Kennedy says. Sadly, Belvedere was finished in 1863 two years after his death. Set on a hill, the palace offers commanding views, including a view of Berlin on a clear day.
Cecilienhof Palace: Designed to resemble an English country estate, the Tudor-style mansion built between 1914 and 1917 played a significant role in 20th century history by hosting the 1945 post-World War II summit known as the Potsdam Conference. Closed for restoration beginning this November, visitors can still wander the grounds and get an eyeful where Truman, Churchill, and Stalin met.
Babelsberg Park and Palace: A neo-Gothic building set amidst a well-landscape garden with pools, lakes and streams. It was designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel for Prince William, later Emperor William I.
Other Attractions in Potsdam
Beyond its palaces, Potsdam offers several other noteworthy attractions including the Dutch Quarter (Holländisches Viertel), a unique district comprised of 134 Dutch-style brick houses. Built in the 1730s to attract Dutch artisans to Germany, the neighborhood now features boutiques, art galleries, and cafes. Historic Garrison Church, currently being restored, gained notoriety as the site of a Nazi rally attended by Adolf Hitler in 1933.
Where to Stay and Dine
Two hotels to consider when visiting Potsdam include the elegant Villa Monte Vino surrounded by a vineyard and less than a five minutes’ walk to the Sanssouci palace. Another place to stay in the historic Old City is the Hotel NH Potsdam located across the street from the Dutch Quarter. Kennedy suggests dining at the Flying Dutchman, a restaurant located in the Quarter serving local cuisine including Havelzander, pan-fried pike, or Berliner Leber, fried liver with diced apples and onions. If the weather’s cooperating, Meierei is an enchanting beer garden and brewery located on the Havel River and known for their seasonal beers.
Potsdam with its palaces and parklands offers travelers the chance to explore a royal residence minus Versailles’ crowds— no small potatoes for anyone interested in Germany’s rich history.
Andrew Nelson is author of National Geographic’s recently published travel book Here Not There. Follow him on Instagram.
